Fine bonsai ramification is one of the qualities that separates a young plant from a mature bonsai. A bonsai with dense, fine branching has the authentic look of an ancient tree. Without good ramification, even the best trunk remains only a promise.<\/p>\n
After more than twenty years growing bonsai in Southern Italy, I have learned that bonsai ramification is not built in a season. It requires years of targeted intervention, patient pruning, and careful reading of the tree.<\/p>\n
This article covers how I achieve fine ramification, which techniques I use, and which species respond best.<\/p>\n
Ramification is the structure of secondary and tertiary branches of the bonsai. The denser and finer it is, the more natural and mature the canopy looks.<\/p>\n
A bonsai with few thick branches looks young. A bonsai with many fine branches feels like an ancient tree scaled down.<\/p>\n
Fine ramification is achieved by stimulating the tree to push secondary shoots through repeated pruning. Each cut forces the plant to produce new branches.<\/p>\n
The main pruning window varies by species. For deciduous broadleaves like elm and hornbeam, spring after the first leaf emission is ideal.<\/p>\n
For conifers like pine and juniper, summer or early autumn is preferable. Growth is calmer and ramification develops in balance.<\/p>\n
Pruning too early weakens. Pruning too late, in autumn or winter, does not stimulate second emission.<\/p>\n
I use thin sharp scissors to cut new shoots to the right length. Generally I leave two or three internodes on shoots being developed.<\/p>\n
The cut must be made just above an internode, so the plant responds by emitting buds from that node.<\/p>\n
Pinching soft shoots is a more delicate variation, used especially on sensitive species like Japanese maple.<\/p>\n
Total or partial defoliation is another tool for stimulating ramification. By removing the leaves of a branch, the tree is forced to emit new shoots with smaller leaves and denser branching.<\/p>\n
It works very well on elms, trident maples and hornbeams. On the Chinese elm, partial spring defoliation produces a much more ramified vegetation in weeks.<\/p>\n
On pines and junipers, defoliation is not done. For these species, candle pinching replaces the function.<\/p>\n
Good bonsai ramification cannot be achieved without a tree in full health. Full sun, air circulation, and balanced fertilization are prerequisites.<\/p>\n
A bonsai in shade produces long shoots with few internodes. Intense light shortens internodes.<\/p>\n